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Hand-applied camouflage and DuraCoat finishing. New River, Arizona. Since 2000.

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    42526 N 18th St, New River, AZ 85087
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Hand-applied DuraCoat firearm finish by Carnimore
DuraCoat Certified. 25 Years Applying.

DuraCoat vs
Cerakote.

Most comparisons online are written by shops that only run one of them. We are DuraCoat certified, so our bias is honest. Here is how the two finishes actually differ in application, durability, and what they can (and can’t) be put on.

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The short version.

DuraCoat and Cerakote are both two-part, mil-spec firearm finishes. They pass the same abrasion and salt-spray tests. The differences that actually matter in the field come down to three things: how they cure, what they can be applied to, and whether a shop can layer them for detailed camouflage work.

Cerakote needs a curing oven. DuraCoat does not. That one difference drives almost every other practical trade-off.

CARNIMORE
Side by Side

Where they actually differ.

Topic
DuraCoat
Cerakote
Cure method
Air-cures at room temperature. No oven.
Requires 250F to 300F curing oven.
Hardness (mil-spec)
Meets MIL-DTL-53039 and passes the same abrasion standards.
Meets MIL-DTL-53039 as well. Slightly harder on the Taber test.
Flex and impact chip resistance
Two-part epoxy flexes slightly. Absorbs impact better.
Ceramic filler makes it hard but more brittle on sharp impact.
Optics and polymer stocks
Coated directly. No heat required.
Generally excluded. Heat damages lenses, coatings, and polymer.
Suppressors
Coats the exterior of most cans.
Often excluded due to adhesive and gasket heat limits.
Custom camouflage
Ideal. Supports freehand multi-layer patterns between sessions.
Impractical for detailed freehand camo. Every layer needs a bake cycle.
Film thickness
Thinner application. Better for tight-tolerance parts.
Slightly thicker. Matters on suppressor threads and bolt interiors.
Shop overhead
No oven. Lower overhead usually passes to the customer.
Oven and ventilation required. Higher shop overhead.

When each one wins.

Pick DuraCoat

For anything that can’t go in an oven.

  • Full-rig finishing with optics, polymer stocks, and suppressors included.
  • Hand-applied custom camouflage with multi-layer detail.
  • Tight-tolerance precision rifle components.
  • Firearms with polymer frames like Glock and Sig P320.
  • Field rifles that take impact and flex in the stock.

Pick Cerakote

For all-metal, single-color rigs.

  • Full-metal firearms with no optic or polymer attached.
  • Single solid color with no layered camouflage.
  • Applications where the slightly harder Taber result matters (rare on sporting arms).
  • Shops that already bake parts for heat-cured bluing adjacent work.
Common Questions

DuraCoat vs Cerakote FAQ.

Is DuraCoat as durable as Cerakote?

In real-world use, yes. Both meet mil-spec hardness. Cerakote edges DuraCoat in short-duration abrasion lab tests. DuraCoat wins on impact and chip resistance because the cured film flexes slightly.

Can Cerakote be applied to optics and polymer?

Generally no. Cerakote requires a 250F to 300F oven, which is too hot for most optics, polymer stocks, suppressor internals, and adhesives. DuraCoat air-cures and does not have this limitation.

Which is better for custom camouflage?

DuraCoat. Multi-layer freehand camouflage needs to be painted over multiple sessions without baking in between. Cerakote's oven cycle makes that impractical.

Does DuraCoat yellow in desert sun?

No. Properly applied DuraCoat is UV-stable. We have coated firearms and a vehicle roof rack that have been in direct Arizona sun for 8+ years without fade or chalking.

Is one cheaper than the other?

Base pricing on a single firearm is similar. The cost difference shows up when you want the optic, suppressor, or polymer parts coated. Cerakote usually excludes those. With DuraCoat they can be included.

Still deciding?
Send us your rig.

Tell us what you shoot, how you use it, and what you want coated. We will tell you honestly whether DuraCoat is the right choice or if you should go elsewhere.

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